Encarna in Ireland 4th Jan.

Another interesting breakfast in Bay Watch hosted by Tom Houlihan (Veronica's husband). You really have to spend a few days here - in Dingle and points west - to begin to get a grasp of the concept that the people of Corcha Duibhne have on reality, it's unique and so close to that other place I hold so close, Cadiz. I am lucky to be in my favourite place in the world with a Gaditana, Encarna. I hope to be able to bring someone from the Gaeltacht (Treasa, for example) to Cadiz to make a comparison. Enough of that. Today was a day to visit rusty stones and slippery slipways. First stop was O'Cathain's bar in Ballyferriter. A very special place in the Murphy tapestry of things. We stopped at 'Tra Fiona' (correct my spelling please) where we went on a rock pool exploring expedition, something which I hadn't done since the last century. Encarna found loads of new friends scuttling about the bottom of the pools. I for one got to stand at the very end of a rock as the Atlantic sloshed and swelled around my ankles. On to Gallerus Oratory, a very old stone chapel with no central heating or seats but it boasts the fact that Saint Brendan used to doss down there after a few pints and a kebab. To Kilmakeadar which is the sort of place you'd expect on 'Time Team' as it's a mixture of all epochs of Irish history, there's an ogham stone, an early christian sundial, a very early cross and the Romanic church - but no bar. We then went to visit 'Cuas' which is where Saint Brendan set off to discover America, only that it wasn't called America then. Eric the Red had called it 'Vlopenhoordom' which didn't catch on . We then stopped off for a beer (Kaliber in my case your honour) in Ballydavid where I asked for a packet of Dry roasted Planters nuts whereupon it was pointed out to me that there was a table creaking under the weight of sausage rolls and soup, further enquiries revealed that these were the remnants of a funeral party that had moved on to better things. Back to Murphy's bar in Dingle for dinner. It really is the best value/service as well as closeness to my new aicraft-carrier sized bed. Encarna is smothered in a sea of eiderdown and has started snoring, albeit of an amateur staus.