martes, 8 de junio de 2010










Another early start and out for a stroll around this picturesque neighbourhood. As most of the houses don’t have curtains on the ground floor, you get a great view into people’s living rooms. I’m struck by the ‘cool’ simplicity of the interior design – no clutter, lots of space. It takes a well-trained and disciplined eye to achieve that. The sound of the Formula 3 cars can be heard practicing for tomorrow’s race in Zandvoort (it was won by ). Time for another box to be ticked on the Dutch experience and so, off on a bike into the center of Haarlem. This is my kind of cycling, no hills though there is a kind of cycling etiquette and bicycles seem to rule the road but no-one seemed to notice my total ignorance. There was a major comic-fest in the center of town and the main square was full of stalls selling all kinds of wares as well as a lot of illustrators plying their craft. I stocked up on some Star Trek. It took me about twenty minutes to find one of the oldest bars in town, the ‘In den Uiver’, http://www.indenuiver.nl, decorated with Aeroplanes. The original owner had been the purser on the first KLM flight to Australia and it has the distinction of being voted 4th best bar in Holland. It took another five minutes to find the Irish Bar, Tierneys, complete with cider on tap and Sky Sports. I took what I thought to be the route to the river and found myself in the (tiny) red-light district. It wasn’t even One O’clock and there were scantily clad ladies waving from their windows, well one scantily-clad lady. The river was alive with all kinds of craft cruising up and down, everyone taking advantage of the great weather. I walked around both sides of the river. This is a beautiful town and well-worth a visit if you’re in the area. Great shops and restaurants and the center is quite compact. A beer by the big wind-mill on the banks of the Spaarne was obligatory and it was here I saw a partly submerged fishing trawler. Two guys were trying to patch her up to get her pumped out. It turned out the new owner was Irish, quite surreal to come across a half-sunken trawler with the new master, a thick Irish brogue swearing they’d never sink his boat. Meet up in the Main square for beers and Bitterballen, now becoming a firm, if deceptively hot tapa on the terraza at XO, people-watching well, bike-watching in my case. I’ve never seen so many different ways to get children on to a bicycle. I was to take the train back as the station in Haarlem is the oldest in Holland, in fact it’s a station within a station, the original one having been preserved within a much bigger, covered structure. The family were visiting so it was an evening of bar-b-que and beer and children covered in chips and ketchup and squashed snails, the children, not the bar-b-q, that general, normal family outing sort of thing. We feasted a selection of sausages with salads, baked potatoes and garlic butter. A very early, happy, smiley night.

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