Following the Camino

Today’s was a very long drive, made even longer by road works. We followed the ‘Camino de Santiago’ by and large so I’ve seen what’s in store for me when I come to do these sections. At Astorga, we left the main road and followed the Camino over one of its higher points – El Cruz de Ferro beside El Acebo, another interesting visit is to the town of Compludo, buried deep down in a valley. It has a water-powered forge but has only been open once out of the three times I’ve been there. Next stop was Molinaseca where some neighbours from Madrid are from, well, Juanco the husband is. The town was buzzing with holiday makers, a wedding, and the ‘returnees’. The local wine is called ‘Clarete’ so we had to have a sample of that. Our destination was Ponferrada, the capital of the ‘Bierzo’ region of Leon, once an important industrial and mining town, unfortunately this has all gone and given the current economic situation, things are bleak. Our hotel was ‘Hotel Temple’, close to the centre and the railway station. It’s a curious mixture of mock-medieval mixed with 70’s design. Lots of chains, swords, and suits of armour all tastefully designed to look like something out of an José Luis López Vazquez farce. The bar is noteworthy as an American low-bar. It’s a ten minute walk up to the old-town, right beside the impressive Templar castle. Juan Carlos and his wife Misa brought us to a local bar – no tourist would find it – called ‘El Bodegon’, this Spanish word means wine cellar or a still-life painting. This place was anything but a still-life. It was packed with locals all tucking in to the variety of tapas of which they were only three types; a special Patatas Bravas, Calamar, and Mussels. Then off for a little tour around the town and to visit some places that Willy had earmarked for attention, first off was the ‘Tiki bar’ with excellent R n’ R in a Hawaiian setting, very typical of the region. Final halt was ‘Morticia’, one of the famous late night stops in town. As the name suggests it’s motif is Hollywood B-movie (and not so) Horror. The music, once again, was excellent. We bade farewell to our hosts and returned to our particular B-movie, mock medieval, retro mansion.